Motorcycle Rear Stand

Intoduction:

The product in this post is a must for everyone who would consider themselves a professional, an aspiring professional motorcyclist or at the very least just somebody who would like to take charge and  take care of their own motorcycle on their own, without having to go to the garage every very short amount of time.

Motorcycles require close care and if one wants to prolong  his/her horse’s life and assure their safety and the proper function of their motorcycle it is very likely they would need to eventually do the mechanical stuff on their own (Or just to go the garage quite often)

My general attitude is to know as much as you can and to perform as much as you can on one’s own, in order to be depended as less as possible in other people and the services they provide. Of course, some services would never to be able to be provided by a certain individual or the average rider due to lack of knowledge, tools and time.

The simpler mechanical maintenance procedures however are aligned in the middle of that knowledge, tools and time spectrum. One of these tools and the knowledge and the time that go along with it is the rear motorcycle jack.

BHB MRS3

Quick Overview:

This tool is relatively cheap and cost me about 70USD and very simple to assemble. Using this tool however is an acquired skill I would say.

Packaging:

The packaging of the stand was very efficient in terms of space and relatively not as heavy as I had expected. The various parts were al enclosed in protective nylons and they seems undamaged on arrival. This fact surprised me due to the very thin cardboard used to create the packaging box.

BHB MRS43

BHB MRS42 

 

Parts:

There are not much parts in this stand.

The main part is the arched handlebar:

BHB MRS33

Two wheeled stands:

BHB MRS40

Two contact endpoints:

BHB MRS28

Two screw sets for connecting the wheeled stands to the handlebar part.

BHB MRS25

BHB MRS24

Two pentagon screws for connecting securing the contact endpoints to the wheeled stands parts.

BHB MRS23

BHB MRS22

Assembly: 

The stand is very simple to assemble due to the simple fact its parts are a few and big. The main part is the arched handlebar part that connects the two parallel wheeled stands. These two wheeled stand eventually connect at their ends to the part that comes into contact with the motorcycle and creates a physical resistance against it. This resistance, when is supplemented with force applied to the handlebar part of the stand, lifts the rear part of the motorcycle upwards.

The end parts that connect to the two wheeled stands are two static hooks. Connection to the stands is done by first inserting them into a cubical tubing that first them perfectly. The second part of the assembly process is to screw in a hexagon vertically into the tube.

The stand also comes with two mounting units that can be hook into a wall or a door and use a place to store then stand without sacrificing more room.

Connecting the handlebar part to the two wheeled stands:

BHB MRS30 BHB MRS20
BHB MRS17 BHB MRS21

BHB MRS16

BHB MRS14

 

Connecting the two wheeled stands part to the contact endpoints:

BHB MRS9 BHB MRS8
BHB MRS7 BHB MRS6
BHB MRS5 BHB MRS4

 

Prior Usage:

When I was first trying to use it I discovered, not to my surprise, that the static hooks cannot really “hook on” to the bike and squeeze against it. There was just nothing to fit to be squeezed to. After searching online a little bit I realized that these static hooks require special fittings to exist on the motorcycle. These fittings are essentially a plastic covered screws that are screwed into the bottom sides of the motorcycle to be later hooked on by the static hooks of the rear stand.

Eventually I bought these fittings and just to be on the safe side (if those fittings would be uninstallable on my motorcycle), I also bought L shaped contact points that replace the static hooks entirely.

I rather much using those replacement L shaped contact points than installing the fittings since it much easier and quicker method of finally using the stand. Installing the fittings would require me to drill into the motorcycle on both ends and to screw in those fittings – something I would rather not doing.

 

Usage:

At a first glance, using this tool is a given. Just place it under the rear part of your motorcycle, position the two L shaped endpoints and lift the motorcycle using the handlebar part of the stand…right ? Well – no. it is more complicated than that. This tool requires developing a skill of how to use it, otherwise your motorcycle will fall on its side or worse – on you, hurting yourself and damaging your precious motorcycle J.

Observing at the various garage mechanics using this tool made me think it is very easy to use this tool, mainly because of the seeming fast way they lift motorcycles on that stand. I was fooled, by my own eyes and dumbness.

 

Flat Surface:

The first critical condition that has to exist before you even begin using this tool is the surface on which you plan to work on. It has to be flat or at the very least as flat as possible. People who have their own garages in their homes are quite settled in this matter. People like me who don’t – are let’s say… challenged. There is no completely flat and smooth surface where I park my motorcycle so I had to be quite creative about it.

A flat and smooth surface would increase the motorcycle’s chance of successfully getting lifted while reducing chances of the bike tilting over. I learned it the hard way. In addition, the plastic wheels of the stand perform much much better on a flat and smooth surface. They don’t have tires or rubber coating which makes them quite hard to be used on a rugged surface.

 

Preparing the surrounding area:

  • This is VERY important. This step could prevent damage to yourself, your belongings, other people and their belongings as well. Make sure the motorcycle is not even close to other cars, motorcycle or any other vehicle. Make sure it is not close to people’s belongings and themselves. Make sure your tools and other materials are positioned either behind or in front of the motorcycle – not on its side - unless they are out of the safety perimeter.

 

Creating a safe perimeter:

  • Try to imagine the tipping over perimeter of the motorcycle if god forbids it happens. Take a safety gap of a meter or more from than perimeter and clear any of the mentioned in the previous paragraph.
  • Positioning the stand and lifting the motorcycle:
  • Put the motorcycle in neutral.
  • Make sure your stand is firm and all of its parts are well strengthen.
  • Make sure the part of the motorcycle which is going to come into contact with the stand is clean of any debris.
  • Positioning the stand is done by inserting it under the rear part of the motorcycle in about a 45 degree angle while making sure both ends of the L shaped contact ends touch the rear part of the motorcycle. When they do, start increasing the force that is used over the stand’s handlebar using your right hand, while using your left hand to support the tilted part of the motorcycle that is supported by its jack.
  • Keep putting a down force on the handlebar while supporting the motorcycle with your left hand till you reach the half point. This point is when the motorcycle is half way lifted in the air. When in this point – pause for a moment and take a general look that the contact end points are firm in their position and all seem to be stable – and move on with completing the lifting process by continuing applying force onto the stand’s handlebar – until it is parallel to the surface.
  • Once the stand is parallel with the surface, the lifting process is done.

 

Post lifting:

  1. Make sure the motorcycle stable. Try pushing it gently from both of its sides to check for stability. Obviously, if you push it took hard it might topple over – so don’t do that please. This is not the motorcycle’s natural jacking position.
  2. Take another look at the stand’s contact endpoints and make sure the hold enough surface area of the motorcycle’s bottom part.
  3. Make sure there is nothing that could potentially cause your stand to accidently get lifted in the other direction of the one it is now, that s, the direction that would cause the motorcycle to get its rear wheel back on the surface.
  4. Try spinning the rear wheel back and forth a bit while checking if the motorcycle stays stable and doesn’t move much. Make sure you don’t hear any suspicious noises from the endpoints area or from the stands itself. Noises could indicate an unstable stand.

 

Lowering the Motorcycle:

  • Make sure the safely perimeter is cleared of any potentially obstructing obstacles and items.
  • Make sure the stand’s handlebar is not oily and greasy.
  • Make sure the stand’s wheels are cleared of any obstacles that could obstruct them when pulling the handlebar back.
  • IMPORTANT – make sure the motorcycle’s jack is all the way in the extended position.
    • Use your hand to make sure it is locked down – This is to prevent the motorcycle from toppling over after lowering it completely (happened to me once)
  • Make sure the contact endpoints on the motorcycle are firmly pressed against the motorcycle
  • Put your left hand on the side of the motorcycle, supporting it.
  • Gently pull the stand’s handlebar upwards while supporting the motorcycle with your left hand
  • When reaching half way to the end of the lowering process, slow the lowering process down. This is important since you don’t want to put back your motorcycle on its jack aggressively, damaging your jack assembly.
  • Gently keep lifting the stand until the motorcycle stand firmly on its own jack
  • Push the motorcycle gently with your left hand rightwards in order to make sure the jack and the motorcycle are stable.
  • Get the stand completely out from under the rear part of the motorcycle, in a close to 45 degrees angle.

 

Cons:

  • Hooks endpoints
    • That stand comes with endpoints hooks that seem to not fit all motorcycles, therefore making unusable out of the box. I believe the stand should’ve been shipped with the fittings that fit those hooks at the very least.
  • Plastic wheels
    • The plastic wheels are very weak. Their axis’ weak nature could be noticed right from the very first user of the stand.
    • The lack of tires or at the very least, rubber coating, makes the stand very bumpy when using not just on an uneven surface but also on a flat and smooth surface as well. Rubber coating or tires would make the grip of the wheels much firmer therefore making the stand safer to use
    • The two parallel wheeled stands get crooked and offset very easily and their holding screws need to be strengthen once in a while

BHB MRS38

  • Wall mounting units
    • Not easy to install since marking drilling holes is relatively complicated
    • The stand is not held firmly enough by those units. The lightest nudge would cause the stand to get loose from these mounting units and fall down

Pros:

  • A very adequate tool for basic motorcycle servicing – chain cleaning and oiling, tire inspection and foaming, wheel cleaning etc
  • Low price
  • Easy intuitive assembly with big parts
  • Stand comes with two wall mounting units
  • Contact endpoints can be replaced with various types of endpoints (Hooks and L shaped)
  • Not heavy and easy to carry
  • Easy to disassemble

Summary:

The gain in this case is bigger than the loss and even if the stand would be eventually discarded for a better one, the experience gained by using it is well appreciated. As a first motorcycle stand I would say it is adequate and does the job if of course all of the instructions mentioned above are done correctly.

 

 

Car Rotating Windshield Cleaner

Have you ever tried to clean your car’s front windshield from the inside of it? It’s annoying and not easy and whoever thought of this product is a simply a genius. So many times I have found myself trying to clean my car’s windshield from within, struggling to get to the bottom farthest area that is hard to access, especially while trying to get the fog and mist out of it before and while driving.

It’s a fact - Car’s windshields get dirty pretty quickly and frequently if not cleaned at close enough time intervals. Dust, birds poo, mud and other elements make the external part of it dirtier whether we drive the car or not. The internal part of the windshield, though gets dirty less often and more slowly than the external part, still presents a frustrating task when needs to be cleaned.

The sharp angel of the vast majority of car’s windshield makes it difficult and unpleasant to clean using traditional methods like using your hand and a good old fiber cloth, especially if you are in the middle of driving and have to clean a certain part of the windshield as soon as possible.

This is why I really like this device, it’s just makes it so much easier, convenient and faster! Since I bought it I always keep it in my gloves compartment and it always comes in handy.

The device itself consists of two main parts -  a handle and a cleaning pad that can be rotated.

It is also very useful for cleaning the rear windshield as you can see here:

 

 

2 Way Car Power Splitter

 

After installing more than one 4 way power splitter in my car I have decided not to connected them on series in order not to lose load and in order not to lose power all together when one of them gets disconnected or gets malfunctioned.
 
 
I have found this nice and simple double power splitter on Ebay and it does the job very well.
It also comes with a LED power indicator.
 
 
The interior of the splitter as you can see is pretty clean and slick.
 
 
Of course the power splitter is meant to split the cigarette socket into two and it could be used to its original purpose of just splitting it. 
 

 

Car Air Ionizer

I bought this little car gadget in order for my car to be less stinky on the inside when driving with no air circulation between the outside of the car and the inside of it. I'm not a smoker and I do clean my car very often but nevertheless more than once I had to deal with a general bad smell inside my car.

Now some of you would say "what's the big deal , just crack a window". I totally agree with that , but what if you can't or don't really want to open a window or circulate air between outside and inside ? for example , in cold weathers , or during rains or when you are with your girlfriend inside your car and it’s cold outside…

Ionizing the air seems to deal with particles of bad smell apparently ,but yet I didn't notice any considerable difference when using this device. I used it for about 3 months when the car was sealed from the outside and any improvement in the car's internal aroma wasn't noticeable (at least by me…).

Moreover , when hooking it up to the car's cigarette power socket it emits some sort of radio interference with the car's radio which sounded like a high frequency disturbing protracted noise in the car's speakers , noticeable when no audio signals are present and their volume is quite high.

I must confess I need more experimentation with this product in order to really get a thorough review on it and beyond that I would really like a device like that to work in my car. more work is needed to be done - first  , I have to solve the interference with the car's radio and second - I have to bring something smelly and stinky inside the car twice - one time with the device working and another time without it and try noticing any difference.

It terms of looks , this little gadget is very cool. It has a blue LED light around it and has a pretty slick design.

More to come on this product in the future.

 

Tire Pressure Monitor - Review

This is a great product that saves time and fuel by making your vehicle's tires pressure visually noticeable without having to use an external measuring instrument.

I found myself more than a few times refilling air in my tires only to find out I have been driving with a significant absence of air inside them for a long time.

I bought 6 of these, 2 for my motorbike and 4 more for my car. In addition to the usual daily\weekly oil checkup which takes a few minutes , this quick visual tire air pressure checkup could be added as a nice addition to this total short maintenance routine as well.

The product is actually a valve stem cam which is screwed instead of the usual valve cap. Unlike the usual valve cap which acts as a cover to the Schrader valve, this product not only covers the valve stem itself but also pushes the Schrader valve downwards in order to release the air pressured inside the tire and by that  , measuring the air pressure inside the tire.

Bottom line - cheap - about 2.15$ a piece , very effective and highly recommended.